Donna Karan knows the core customer of her namesake label is a powerful woman – many a big deal has been struck in her clothing. Who better to inspire her Fall/Winter presentation than one of the original power chicks, Marlene Dietrich, specifically her character in The Blue Angel.
With the inspiration firmly planted for the collection, Donna took us on a journey through Dietrich gender-bending wardrobe but twisted it to her own unique vision, bending and curving menswear for a woman’s fine curves. The result was reminiscent of another movie moment, a line Melanie Griffith uttered in Working Girl: this is a wardrobe fit for a woman who has “a head for business and a bod for sin.”
Based around suits and tuxedo looks with accompanying Stephen Jones mini fedoras for each piece, the look was inspired by the 1930’s but reworked for modern times. Suit jackets became fitted dresses, a red dress suddenly had a lapel and an off-center seam as if a jacket had been wrapped around the body.
Pinstripe material was draped and tucked into an alluring sleeveless dress with a slit up to here and a breast-enhancing shape. Karan’s magic is that she KNOWS a woman’s body so well that even menswear fabrics have to yield to her demands.
Each dress in the collection walked down the runway to body-hugging perfection….
… particularly a gorgeous black high-necked long sleeve number with sharp shoulders. 30’s inspired, but modern loved.
I’m particularly fond of the coats from this collection, luxurious pieces yielded in such luxurious fabrics that it could elevate even the most basic of looks underneath.
These are town car coats, made to make an arrival with impact.
The finale gown was a siren call of red with a folded bodice that is just screaming for a red carpet somewhere. Somewhere, Dietrich must be proud. A collection inspired by The Blue Angel, we all hope to spend a season in Karan’s heavenly clothes. Sharp, feminine, powerful – essentially Karan. Loved it.